Augrabies Falls
When I think of the Augrabies Falls, I think of the time that we went on our annual holiday to Namibia, only this time we took the scenic route. We started off this holiday, stranded for hours in December in the midday sun in Upington after the radiator, or some water-related thing, ‘exploded’ and we had to wait for the combi to cool down. And that ‘explosion’ set the tone for the whole trip. The poor combi, and us, limped through the summer scenic route with regular stops to wait for the combi to cool in the unrelenting African December sun. Augrabies was our first stop and we just melted into our camping spot. And that is all that I remember of my first trip to the Augrabies Falls.
For this reason, the not wanting ‘foreigners’ to melt reason, I usually tell friends not to come to visit over the summer, however when a gap is found, and that gap happens to fall in the middle of December, then so be it. And so it happened that my friend RTD had a gap over December and that was how I headed again for Augrabies in the middle of December.
We left home early, did a small bit of exploring in Upington before heading out toward the waterfall. Considering the dead dry road between Olifantshoek and Upington, this was a scenic route with twist and turns and vineyards.
Tierberg in Keimoes
We were told that Tierberg was a place to see, and as we were going to pass right by it, we gave it a go. It was very steep going up. I hate being in a vehicle and going up steep inclines like that. It always feels as if the vehicle that I am in is either going to fall on its roof and roll over, or stop going forward and roll back down the hill at a terrible speed. Ironically, going down face first, does not bother me at all.
Anyway, at the top, you can see the surrounding green of the vineyards stuck in between the dry rocky landscape. The Orange River is really the lifeblood of this area. Without it, their will be no grapes, and very likely no towns, in this otherwise dry and barren land.
You can also see the solar mirror for which you don’t need to go up this hill to see. You can pretty much see this from anywhere in a very big radius. It is this blinding light in the distance and I have heard people say it makes them think of that evil eye thing in Lord of the Rings.
Pienk padstal in Kakamas
This is an iconic stop right on the way. You can’t miss it. Stretch your legs and buy some grapes. I bought a box here, and it was the best tasting grapes that I have had in forever. Back home, I got the exact same brand in the same box in on of the local shops, and there was no comparison. It is just better at the source. Also got some pink souvenirs, took some kiekies with RTD, and found a Geocache.
Augrabies
And so day came to go to the Falls. Knowing that we were going to be outside most of the day, I pasted myself white with sunblock (remember this sunblock pasting for later….). But once outside I was pleasantly surprised by the coolness in the air. We might not melt, we however still not do the Dassie trail regardless of the cooler air.
Anyway, we made our way to the falls. Al along the walkways and spray. It was a dry year so the falls were not ‘spectacular’ as in a good rain year, It is no Victoria. but never the less still impressive. Even though this area is a rocky dry almost ‘moonscape’ I still find it beautiful. It is so wonderfully made, so big and calming in a weird way.
I have only ever known ‘dry’. When it was not the Kalahari, it was the Namib. I was very disappointed when I once showed foreigners where I came from. I showed them my beautiful desert sunsets, kameeldorings next to red sand dunes and the endless sandy beaches of Namibia. They just told me straight out ‘Africa is ugly, we will not be visiting there‘. This is also the reaction of many South Africans living in the more fertile green coastal areas. Some of them just can’t seem like it. So I guess, the desert landscapes’ beauty does lie in the eye of the beholder.
I feel that I need to mention that there is a big difference between draught and dry. Draught breaks my heart, while desert-like areas were made that way and as such have a natural unique beauty that for obvious reasons can’t be compared to the beauty of lush green fields or turquoise waters.
Moon Rock
After just staring into the distance admiring the big uniqueness of the area, we went for a little drive to the Moon Rock. We climbed to this vantage point. To the one side are green vineyards and to the other only rocks as far as the eye can see. This made me think of the Bible story were Lot and Abram split up. Lot looked around and saw fertile ground on the one side, and decided that he will go that way. So, that was what I was thinking standing on top of the Moon Rock.
Giraffes
On the way back to the main gate, I nearly rolled the car. Ok, that is a bit of an exaggeration, but it does bring across how excited I was to see a giraffe lying in the shade. I have seen quite a few giraffes in my life, but never have I seen one lying down. And not in a sickly way. he was just lying down in the shade of a tree. The other giraffe encounter that stuck in my mind as pretty awesome, was the time (also in December) in the Kgalagadi Park where I saw the effort it took a giraffe to drink water. What manoeuvring it takes to get that high up head to the water. And how vulnerable they are in that wide stance, head down position. The giraffes made my day both here and at the Transfrontier Park
Souvenir Sunburn
Even though this guy with the long neck was in the shade, it was a cool day by the standards of anybody living in this area. My car’s thermometer never went over 27 degrees. But just like the beauty of the desert lies in the eye of the beholder, so does the heat so to speak. Everywhere we stopped, people were telling us that we were lucky to have had such a cool day. I was in agreement. However, poor RTD did not experience the day as cool and I was very glad that Augrabies did not give this ‘foreigner’ is usual summer 40 and beyond.
This coolness however does not mean less of a sting. Even in this cool weather, my shoulders were burned to a crisp regardless of all the sunscreen that I liberally applied. I never felt the burn until way after the fact. When all was done and dusted, kiekies were taken while RTD posed and we left behind the beauty of the desert falls, I took home with me the souvenir of looking like a lobster and then peeling like old paint of a wall.
Some more kiekies of RTD who will be going on another adventure later this month….
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